Little India in Wales

Monmouth, a small market town, lies at the confluence of the Wye, Monnow and Trothy rivers but you could be forgiven for thinking it was the Indus and the mighty Ganges. It is not the floods that give this impression but the concentration of Indian restaurants. A banner has just appeared outside the Brittania Inn proclaiming that another (the sixth) will be opening shortly.

Most towns have a takeaway and already Monmouth has 2 Chinese (3rd opening soon) a kebab house, a Mexcican and 5 Indians of course. This town has never known whether it is English or Welsh but I think in terms of eating it's becoming quite cosmopolitan. It does, however. cause a dilemma when you get that curry craving - which one to choose tonight and that's just the restaurant before you get to selecting the food.

As you approach the town down Priory Street you come across the Mizbah, the choice of the stars! Frequently winning awards and currently in the Curry Club Top 100 restaurants it is one of the oldest established Indian restaurants in town. Serving Bangladeshi Cuisine it is always busy and the proprietor makes a feature of the famous names who have called there and enjoyed his food. Politicians, pop stars and other celebrities ranging from Bob Geldof to David Steel and Marc Owen have all stopped off for a meal and many more besides. The celebrity list is endless and the food is good. It's our favourite for kicking off the family Christmas celebrations- a curry before midnight mass on Christmas Eve is just the thing.

Chefs recommendations include Chicken Bhuna and Bengal Chicken Massalla but look out for the Bangladeshi fish dishes as well- they're excellent.

Misbah Tandoori Restaurant, 9 Priory Street, Monmouth. Tel 01600714940

Stroll through Agincourt Square ( past the scaffolding on the Shire Hall) and a little way down Monnow Street you will come to Spice Royale. This is a comparative newcomer to the scene and despite being on the site of an old bakery has a clean modern interior. The cuisine is also Bangladeshi and guest chefs from top hotels in India have been a feature of the last year. Chefs specials include Gosht Hindustani(Lamb with aromatic spices and almonds in a mild creamy sauce) and Duck Amistrani which is cooked in honey and mustard and served in a chilli and coconut sauce. Jinga King Prawns are good and Tony says that you'll get the best Chicken Madras here. A vegetable dish of the day often accompanies the main meal and you are always assured of a warm welcome and attentive service.

Spice Royale, 3 Monnow Street, Monmouth. Tel 01600714440

Walking on down Monnow Street you will come to the Oldway Centre on the right hand side and here you will find Indian Summer. Originally just a take away this was refurbished in 2006 to provide a restaurant upstairs. Sitting at an open window on a summers evening you just need a view of a river, any river - Indus Ganges, Monnow and not a view of the opticians. The food is always good but you need to take your own alcohol if required. This is no hardship as Somerfield is next door! This is the restaurant for Biriyani, in my opinion, but there are plenty of other tempting dishes too.

Indian Summer, 5 The Oldway Centre, Monnow Street Monmouth NP25 3PS Tel:(01600) 719519

At the bottom of Monnow Street is the long established Raduni Balti Restaurant. This has the most traditional interior and is much favoured by friends of ours who grew up in Kenya and know a good curry when they taste one!Again you're guaranteed a good meal and there is some dispute among family and friends as to whether maybe the best Chicken Madras is served here!
Raduni, 107 Monnow Street, Monmouth. Telephone: 01600 716235

The final restaurant is not on the main street but is situated in an old black and white pub called The Queen's Head in St James Street. A relatively new venture, this restaurant offers North Bengal cuisine. When eating here we tried the Thali dishes and found an interesting and complimentary range of flavours. Signature dishes include North Bengalese chicken, duck, lamb chops, quail and tiger prawns.

Imli Bengal Restaurant at the Queen's Head, St James Street, Monmouth. Tel 01600 711533.

It is surprising in such a small town that so many outlets can remain trading so it is a tribute to their good food that they do so. Surrounding towns might be able to field one or two restaurants but five and soon to be six is unusual. A quick look at their websites or windows will reveal the number of awards they are all consistently winning. Indian food is much appreciated in this neck of the woods and the first place we make for on our return from holiday is one of these excellent establishments - but which one? Now that is the question!