'Four portions of fish and chips thats £42 please. Lucky you got your order in we're just shutting the kitchen!'
'Funny, I thought. I don't feel particularly lucky paying that much for fish and chips. Let's hope they're good.'
We were lucky to get a seat too, really, I suppose. This was one busy place. I sipped my J2O - got to economise somewhere and surveyed the stuffed albatross in a case. The abatross had flown into a mast in the early years of the twentieth century and had subsequently been stuffed by a handy sailor on the ship.Last time I'd seen this place it was an aquarium but now it was a busy bar/bistro annexe of the Harbourmaster hotel in Aberaeron. We hadn't been over here for a few years but wanted to try the establishment as my hero Paddy Burt ( Daily Telegraph) had written a review of it some time ago.
Soon our cutlery arrived, followed by the food. Nicely presented, crushed garden peas rather than traditional mushy peas and it certainly kept hunger at bay. The batter didn't seem to know whether it was batter or breadcrumbs as it had a granular texture but wasn't greasy. The waitress didn't know whether the fish was local or Captain Birds Eye. So there we had it, our expensive fish and chips. Walking past the chippy in town I was glad we hadn't chosen to sit at the dirty, chip strewn tables on the pavement. It wasn't the most expensive fish and chips I'd had (Topsham beat that at £20 a portion), but neither was it the best. And what's all this, come 2p.m. or 2.30p.m. the kitchen closes? It was a Saturday, high season and the town was heaving. You would think that while there was custom on the streets the publicans and cafe owners would want to relieve them of their hard earned cash. It's not as though West Wales is a year round destination for all.
Once again it comes around to customer care and it's just lacking in so many establishments. Waitresses should know where the fish came from or at least be prepared to go and find out. Don't greet client with 'We're shutting the kitchen in 3 minutes so get your order in smatish if you want to eat' It's not the ideal greeting if you're going to fleece the poor punter to boot. I don't want Uriah Heap grovelling as you come in but a little bit of graciousness might be nice and maybe a 'Thak you for your custom, I hope you'll return' as you leave might spread a little cheer.
The Harbour Master Hotel (meal taken in the Bar not the restaurant)
Aberaeron, Ceredigion
http://www.harbour-master.com
Thursday, 20 August 2009
Lobster and strawberries
We are so lucky that we live in close proximity to so many good eateries and when the postcard popped through the letter box advertising champagne, lobster and strawberries at the Stonemill, Rockfield, little encouragement was needed to rush over.
I fondly imagined that the sun would be shining and we would sit out on the newly refurbished patio taking in the rays of the setting sun and sipping champagne. Wrong! This is Wales after all and it is August so cowerin under a leaden sky and a frisky, chilling breeze we chose to sit inside on the comfy sofa's.
The champagne was soon served and some interesting little nibbles - chorizo and tomato tarts, mini smoked salmon roulade and a roasted vine tomato. Just right to get us in the mood for food. We toasted the return of the soldier and chatted with Michelle and Margaret before going to our table for the lobster. The hungry son woofed down fresh bread and dipping oil and balsamic as we waited for the lobster. Always important to have plenty of pre meal neibbles when hungry boys are involved. The rock lobster was served with new potaotes and salad and judging by the clean plates it hit the spot even if the great British Summer wasn't really living up to the champagne and strawberries idyll.
Strawberries and cream finished off the meal and a pleasant evening. I can remember when the restaurant used to be part of the range of farm yard buildings but it has a pleasant ambience. The stone cider trough and wheel in the middle of the room and the low beams hint at the agricultural past but the food is always sophisticated and locally sourced. ( Not the rock lobsters though - they'd caught the 'plane from Scotland I believe). On a nice day you can sit in the garden and live the rural idyll - a stones throw from the Hendre estate, home of Charles Rolls and only a couple of miles from Monmouth. So if you fancy some lobster get over to the Stonemill now. Booking advisable - especially if you want lobster!
It is advertised at £15.50 per person but by the time you add wine and coffee your bill will shoot up a little.
The Stonemill - Rockfield - Monmouth - NP25 5SW
Tel: 01600 716273 Fax: 01600 715257
bookings@thestonemill.co.uk
I fondly imagined that the sun would be shining and we would sit out on the newly refurbished patio taking in the rays of the setting sun and sipping champagne. Wrong! This is Wales after all and it is August so cowerin under a leaden sky and a frisky, chilling breeze we chose to sit inside on the comfy sofa's.
The champagne was soon served and some interesting little nibbles - chorizo and tomato tarts, mini smoked salmon roulade and a roasted vine tomato. Just right to get us in the mood for food. We toasted the return of the soldier and chatted with Michelle and Margaret before going to our table for the lobster. The hungry son woofed down fresh bread and dipping oil and balsamic as we waited for the lobster. Always important to have plenty of pre meal neibbles when hungry boys are involved. The rock lobster was served with new potaotes and salad and judging by the clean plates it hit the spot even if the great British Summer wasn't really living up to the champagne and strawberries idyll.
Strawberries and cream finished off the meal and a pleasant evening. I can remember when the restaurant used to be part of the range of farm yard buildings but it has a pleasant ambience. The stone cider trough and wheel in the middle of the room and the low beams hint at the agricultural past but the food is always sophisticated and locally sourced. ( Not the rock lobsters though - they'd caught the 'plane from Scotland I believe). On a nice day you can sit in the garden and live the rural idyll - a stones throw from the Hendre estate, home of Charles Rolls and only a couple of miles from Monmouth. So if you fancy some lobster get over to the Stonemill now. Booking advisable - especially if you want lobster!
It is advertised at £15.50 per person but by the time you add wine and coffee your bill will shoot up a little.
The Stonemill - Rockfield - Monmouth - NP25 5SW
Tel: 01600 716273 Fax: 01600 715257
bookings@thestonemill.co.uk
Friday, 14 August 2009
Little India in Wales
Monmouth, a small market town, lies at the confluence of the Wye, Monnow and Trothy rivers but you could be forgiven for thinking it was the Indus and the mighty Ganges. It is not the floods that give this impression but the concentration of Indian restaurants. A banner has just appeared outside the Brittania Inn proclaiming that another (the sixth) will be opening shortly.
Most towns have a takeaway and already Monmouth has 2 Chinese (3rd opening soon) a kebab house, a Mexcican and 5 Indians of course. This town has never known whether it is English or Welsh but I think in terms of eating it's becoming quite cosmopolitan. It does, however. cause a dilemma when you get that curry craving - which one to choose tonight and that's just the restaurant before you get to selecting the food.
As you approach the town down Priory Street you come across the Mizbah, the choice of the stars! Frequently winning awards and currently in the Curry Club Top 100 restaurants it is one of the oldest established Indian restaurants in town. Serving Bangladeshi Cuisine it is always busy and the proprietor makes a feature of the famous names who have called there and enjoyed his food. Politicians, pop stars and other celebrities ranging from Bob Geldof to David Steel and Marc Owen have all stopped off for a meal and many more besides. The celebrity list is endless and the food is good. It's our favourite for kicking off the family Christmas celebrations- a curry before midnight mass on Christmas Eve is just the thing.
Chefs recommendations include Chicken Bhuna and Bengal Chicken Massalla but look out for the Bangladeshi fish dishes as well- they're excellent.
Misbah Tandoori Restaurant, 9 Priory Street, Monmouth. Tel 01600714940
Stroll through Agincourt Square ( past the scaffolding on the Shire Hall) and a little way down Monnow Street you will come to Spice Royale. This is a comparative newcomer to the scene and despite being on the site of an old bakery has a clean modern interior. The cuisine is also Bangladeshi and guest chefs from top hotels in India have been a feature of the last year. Chefs specials include Gosht Hindustani(Lamb with aromatic spices and almonds in a mild creamy sauce) and Duck Amistrani which is cooked in honey and mustard and served in a chilli and coconut sauce. Jinga King Prawns are good and Tony says that you'll get the best Chicken Madras here. A vegetable dish of the day often accompanies the main meal and you are always assured of a warm welcome and attentive service.
Spice Royale, 3 Monnow Street, Monmouth. Tel 01600714440
Walking on down Monnow Street you will come to the Oldway Centre on the right hand side and here you will find Indian Summer. Originally just a take away this was refurbished in 2006 to provide a restaurant upstairs. Sitting at an open window on a summers evening you just need a view of a river, any river - Indus Ganges, Monnow and not a view of the opticians. The food is always good but you need to take your own alcohol if required. This is no hardship as Somerfield is next door! This is the restaurant for Biriyani, in my opinion, but there are plenty of other tempting dishes too.
Indian Summer, 5 The Oldway Centre, Monnow Street Monmouth NP25 3PS Tel:(01600) 719519
At the bottom of Monnow Street is the long established Raduni Balti Restaurant. This has the most traditional interior and is much favoured by friends of ours who grew up in Kenya and know a good curry when they taste one!Again you're guaranteed a good meal and there is some dispute among family and friends as to whether maybe the best Chicken Madras is served here!
Raduni, 107 Monnow Street, Monmouth. Telephone: 01600 716235
The final restaurant is not on the main street but is situated in an old black and white pub called The Queen's Head in St James Street. A relatively new venture, this restaurant offers North Bengal cuisine. When eating here we tried the Thali dishes and found an interesting and complimentary range of flavours. Signature dishes include North Bengalese chicken, duck, lamb chops, quail and tiger prawns.
Imli Bengal Restaurant at the Queen's Head, St James Street, Monmouth. Tel 01600 711533.
It is surprising in such a small town that so many outlets can remain trading so it is a tribute to their good food that they do so. Surrounding towns might be able to field one or two restaurants but five and soon to be six is unusual. A quick look at their websites or windows will reveal the number of awards they are all consistently winning. Indian food is much appreciated in this neck of the woods and the first place we make for on our return from holiday is one of these excellent establishments - but which one? Now that is the question!
Most towns have a takeaway and already Monmouth has 2 Chinese (3rd opening soon) a kebab house, a Mexcican and 5 Indians of course. This town has never known whether it is English or Welsh but I think in terms of eating it's becoming quite cosmopolitan. It does, however. cause a dilemma when you get that curry craving - which one to choose tonight and that's just the restaurant before you get to selecting the food.
As you approach the town down Priory Street you come across the Mizbah, the choice of the stars! Frequently winning awards and currently in the Curry Club Top 100 restaurants it is one of the oldest established Indian restaurants in town. Serving Bangladeshi Cuisine it is always busy and the proprietor makes a feature of the famous names who have called there and enjoyed his food. Politicians, pop stars and other celebrities ranging from Bob Geldof to David Steel and Marc Owen have all stopped off for a meal and many more besides. The celebrity list is endless and the food is good. It's our favourite for kicking off the family Christmas celebrations- a curry before midnight mass on Christmas Eve is just the thing.
Chefs recommendations include Chicken Bhuna and Bengal Chicken Massalla but look out for the Bangladeshi fish dishes as well- they're excellent.
Misbah Tandoori Restaurant, 9 Priory Street, Monmouth. Tel 01600714940
Stroll through Agincourt Square ( past the scaffolding on the Shire Hall) and a little way down Monnow Street you will come to Spice Royale. This is a comparative newcomer to the scene and despite being on the site of an old bakery has a clean modern interior. The cuisine is also Bangladeshi and guest chefs from top hotels in India have been a feature of the last year. Chefs specials include Gosht Hindustani(Lamb with aromatic spices and almonds in a mild creamy sauce) and Duck Amistrani which is cooked in honey and mustard and served in a chilli and coconut sauce. Jinga King Prawns are good and Tony says that you'll get the best Chicken Madras here. A vegetable dish of the day often accompanies the main meal and you are always assured of a warm welcome and attentive service.
Spice Royale, 3 Monnow Street, Monmouth. Tel 01600714440
Walking on down Monnow Street you will come to the Oldway Centre on the right hand side and here you will find Indian Summer. Originally just a take away this was refurbished in 2006 to provide a restaurant upstairs. Sitting at an open window on a summers evening you just need a view of a river, any river - Indus Ganges, Monnow and not a view of the opticians. The food is always good but you need to take your own alcohol if required. This is no hardship as Somerfield is next door! This is the restaurant for Biriyani, in my opinion, but there are plenty of other tempting dishes too.
Indian Summer, 5 The Oldway Centre, Monnow Street Monmouth NP25 3PS Tel:(01600) 719519
At the bottom of Monnow Street is the long established Raduni Balti Restaurant. This has the most traditional interior and is much favoured by friends of ours who grew up in Kenya and know a good curry when they taste one!Again you're guaranteed a good meal and there is some dispute among family and friends as to whether maybe the best Chicken Madras is served here!
Raduni, 107 Monnow Street, Monmouth. Telephone: 01600 716235
The final restaurant is not on the main street but is situated in an old black and white pub called The Queen's Head in St James Street. A relatively new venture, this restaurant offers North Bengal cuisine. When eating here we tried the Thali dishes and found an interesting and complimentary range of flavours. Signature dishes include North Bengalese chicken, duck, lamb chops, quail and tiger prawns.
Imli Bengal Restaurant at the Queen's Head, St James Street, Monmouth. Tel 01600 711533.
It is surprising in such a small town that so many outlets can remain trading so it is a tribute to their good food that they do so. Surrounding towns might be able to field one or two restaurants but five and soon to be six is unusual. A quick look at their websites or windows will reveal the number of awards they are all consistently winning. Indian food is much appreciated in this neck of the woods and the first place we make for on our return from holiday is one of these excellent establishments - but which one? Now that is the question!
Tuesday, 11 August 2009
To the Lighthouse...
To the lighthouse…
‘I’d like to take you to the lighthouse, Mr Frost often said with a twinkle in his eye. As chat up lines went, it wasn’t the best but I gathered that in his youth the old gentleman had enjoyed romantic walks to the West Usk Lighthouse with his intended. Newport and romance don’t really go hand in hand. The city has a fine industrial past and is forging ahead with re-branding itself but romantic – no.
Imagine my surprise when on a sunny summers evening my husband suggested we should go to the lighthouse. Passing the Transporter Bridge and leaving behind the bustle of the M4 and the Duffryn estate we soon emerged into a different world. Reens flowed alongside the road, cows grazed peacefully in the late afternoon sunshine and ancient farmhouses turned their windows seaward. It was a different world, almost unchanged by the passage of time.
Easing past a fast approaching car on the narrow road my husband recounted how a charabanc trip his grandfather took to the lighthouse ended in disaster when the coach tipped into the reen. It’s difficult to imagine today that the populace of Newport found trips to St. Brides, Wentloog and the Lighthouse to be the equivalent of, say, Porthcawl. Driving through the village of St. Brides we made our way to the sea wall and looked out over the hot chocolate coloured waters of the channel and the 70% cocoa solids mud. Several people were out walking their dogs but there was little evidence of the tea shops and amusements that were said to have been here. We walked toward the lighthouse scanning the shore for signs of past activity.
Yet we know that they were here because Fred Hando comments in his article Newport Super Mare that the trippers were departing as we took to the road but we left them and turned to the left for the village of St. Brides. Earlier he had been swimming in the Ebbw. This was 1924 and it appears that he must also have served in the war because he likens the landscape to that around Arras. Even if you don’t want to bathe here or set up your deckchair on the miniscule patches of sand there is an unexpected peace here beneath the large open skies. Waders pick their way delicately across the mud and curlews make their plaintive call. If you know your birds you can spot heron, little egrets, flycatchers and black headed gulls to name but a few. The metropolis could be a million miles away.
The lighthouse is now a much written about bed and breakfast and obviously the spirit of romance that Mr Frost captured in his youth lingers on, for their website boasts of the numerous proposals of marriage that have taken place here. What better place to go down on one knee than on the top of a lighthouse with the sound of the rushing tide and the call of the birds. Built in the nineteenth century and designed by a Scottish architect it was decommissioned in 1922. Now it is a haven of peace, tranquillity and alternative therapies. With views across to Clevedon and Weston you won’t find promenades and amusement arcades here, just the lonely sea and the sky. However, entertainment is not far away as Newport boasts something for all tastes – cinema’s, theatre, art gallery, shopping, golf courses, spas’s – what more could you want?
Having found no concrete evidence of the entertainment of yesteryear we decided to retrace our steps and were overtaken by a very determined cow, obviously late for a hot date on the marshes. Our next stop was to be in the village of St. Brides where we were keen to try The Inn at the Elm Tree. Recently refurbished and now reopened we found the rear of the establishment to be more hospitable than the front.
You can be assured that the hungry ‘tripper’ will find a warm welcome amid the cool, modern décor. Stone flags and exposed stone walls grace the bar and there are leather sofas to sink on to. It is a good place for a reviving drink and a glance at the menu suggests that food might be in order to. Tempted by sea bass and duck we ordered and then made our way into the spacious dining room. Service was prompt and the food very good. The waitress explained that they had only been open five weeks but there were plenty of people dining on this sunlit Wednesday evening. Sharing a cheeseboard we pondered the way things were, when people had less money, transport was scarce and the simpler things in life were appreciated.
Stepping outside the inn it was difficult to believe that we were on the outskirts of a city. We drove past St. Brides church which has the plaque commemorating the Great Flood of 1606 and headed back toward the M4. You might want to go to the lighthouse too; if you live in Newport it is a great place for a stroll with an opportunity to appreciate the river, once busy with traffic for the docks. If you don’t live in the area, have a city break with a difference and if romance is on your mind, take a leaf out of Mr. Frost’s book and take your intended for a stroll down to the lighthouse.
West Usk Lighthouse B&B www.westusklighthouse.co.uk8S
The Inn at the Elm Tree, restaurant with rooms’
St. Brides Wentloog, Newport NP10 8SQ Tel 01633 681119
Monday, 10 August 2009
Going west
The rain it raineth every day, but we went west for our 'staycation' anyway. It wasn't that we were being terribly patriotic so much as we couldn't face airport queues. Welcome to the motorway queue instead - 7 hours on the M5 and A30! At least the sun was shining in Mousehole and I had thought far enough ahead to book a table to make our trip worth while.
So motorway lagged we rolled into 2 Fore Street for our first meal of the holiday. Perched in what had once probably been a double fronted shop in a street at right angles to the harbour, the decor was modern and minimalist. Tables for two were a little cramped and families or larger parties were allocated the better seats in the bay windows. But it is the food you need to know about - not so much the windows. ( unless you have a window seat though you won't be able to appreciate the view).
It's a pretty fishy menu as behoves a harbour restaurant. I started with Exe bay mussels and Tony had scallops ( a feature of the week these scallops).
Keeping with the fishy theme grilled plaice and lemon sole were sampled for mains. Veggies were extra and we just had a portion of chips between us. All was very pleasant. On the next table there were complaints about the size of the steak, but as it had all been consumed before they complained it was difficult to say whether this was justified or not.
Although we didn't really need pudding we had one anyway, actually two. The ice cream connoisseur had 3 scoops - vanilla, strawberry and rum and raisen ( local Cornish) and I had summer pudding and clotted cream.
It was a very pleasant meal with good service and good food and I would certainly recommend it to other diners. At £74.50 it was averagely expensive. Had the family been there it might have been fish and chips from Janners on the harbour wall!
2 Fore Street, Mousehole, Penznace, TR19 6PF Tel. 01736731164
The Ship Inn in Mousehole had garnered some bad reviews online on account of the surly service so it was with some trepidation that we entered on Sunday evening. we didn't know whether to be disappointed or relieved when everyone was perfectly friendly. As with all the eating establishements it is essential to book if you want to be sure of food. We didn't and fortunately they managed to find a table for two. The dining room was supervised by a young girl and two teenage waiters/waitresses. Being a Sunday they were serving a roast of the day plis a variety of other pub grub. The roast of the day was turkey accompanied by a good range of vegetables. There was little finesse but swift efficient service and plentiful hot food - just what you expect in a pub. At £8.95 for the dish of the day you couldn't complain.
The Ship Inn, South Cliff, Mousehole, TR19 6QX
Tuesday saw a day of sunshine and showers so off we trotted to St. Ives to look at the Tate. We arrived at just the wrong moment and had to queue for ages to get in. Similarly the cafe was heaving so we strolled around some of the other galleries and then it started to rain again. The Seafood Cafe was serving fish soup (among other things) and so it seemed like a good idea to go in and sample some. We had eaten here on a previous visit to St. Ives and it is to be recommended. The soup was excellent, the rain abated and we continued on our way. If you want a good place to eat in St. Ives - this should be on your list.
Sea Food Cafe, 45 Fore Street, St. Ives. Tel 01736 794004
The weather improved and we were really looking forward to sampling the menu at the Gurnards Head. We had previously enjoyed eating at The Felin Fach Griffin the Welsh sister restaurant and so saved this treat for a suny evening. Due to the geography of the Cornish lanes it took us a little time to reach Zennor but finally we saw a large building with the name written on the roof to help us find our way. Being a little early we took a stroll along the cliff and enjoyed the evening sunshine. Collecting our menus and adrink we went to sit in the garden while we considered the choices. Feeling a little cold we wandered inside and were shown to our table. The decor is interesting- shabby chic in tones of turqouise, ochre and Pompeiin red. A sofa and some board games was situated just behind our table. Our table for two and another table were actually in a passage between the bar and the larger dining area.
Without further ado we were asked what we wanted and then our starter was plonked on the table in front of us. The crab liguini was fine and this was followed by pinbone steak and chips and cod and mash. It was all fine but not very exciting. This was probably less to do with the food and more to do with the fact that there was little sense of occasion. The customer was almost an inconvenience. There was no offer of bread or olives to munch while one pondered the surroundings and enjoyed those first sips of wine. Service was efficient but perfunctory. The puddings and the evening in general were not exciting enough to make us want to linger.
At £69.70 for 2 courses and a bottle of wine was it even good value? So often the diner is just someone to be ushered in and out and take the cash. So if you want good food in a location with fine views this is the place to be. If you want to feel that you were a valued customer persevere, but don't expect too much.
The Gurnards Head, Nr Zennor, St. Ives. Tel 01736 796928
or our final evening in Cornwall we ate at the Cornish Range back in Mousehole. We had enjoyed an excellent crab sandwich from there earlier in the week and were looking forward to trying the full menu. The restaurant is on one of the back streets so you won't get a sea view but you will get a warm welcome. Settling down with the menu and straining to see the 'specials board' there were some difficult decisons to make. While we mulled them over olives, home made bread and oil were brought to the table.
Eventually we were ready to order, both choosing the same - mussells and lobster. Beware, the starters are so large that you really do not need anything else to follow, let alone half a lobster! We soldiered on though and it was very nice. My only complaint, and a very minor one, was that much as I love samphire, i could have managed without it in both mussels and lobster! Lemon possett for pudding was beautifully presented and the ice cream fiend contiued his sampling of Cornwall's best. 3 courses plus wine and coffee came in at under £70 which almost appeared to be a bargain! This was definitely the best of the establishments we visited.
The service was efficient, caring and knowledgeable, the food excellent and the actual restaurant was a pleasnat place to be. Plenty of space, the walls hung with very good paintings by local artists. Many were turned away as we ate as the place was fully booked. definitely worth a try.
The Cornish Range, 6 Chapel St., Mousehole 01736 731488
So motorway lagged we rolled into 2 Fore Street for our first meal of the holiday. Perched in what had once probably been a double fronted shop in a street at right angles to the harbour, the decor was modern and minimalist. Tables for two were a little cramped and families or larger parties were allocated the better seats in the bay windows. But it is the food you need to know about - not so much the windows. ( unless you have a window seat though you won't be able to appreciate the view).
It's a pretty fishy menu as behoves a harbour restaurant. I started with Exe bay mussels and Tony had scallops ( a feature of the week these scallops).
Keeping with the fishy theme grilled plaice and lemon sole were sampled for mains. Veggies were extra and we just had a portion of chips between us. All was very pleasant. On the next table there were complaints about the size of the steak, but as it had all been consumed before they complained it was difficult to say whether this was justified or not.
Although we didn't really need pudding we had one anyway, actually two. The ice cream connoisseur had 3 scoops - vanilla, strawberry and rum and raisen ( local Cornish) and I had summer pudding and clotted cream.
It was a very pleasant meal with good service and good food and I would certainly recommend it to other diners. At £74.50 it was averagely expensive. Had the family been there it might have been fish and chips from Janners on the harbour wall!
2 Fore Street, Mousehole, Penznace, TR19 6PF Tel. 01736731164
The Ship Inn in Mousehole had garnered some bad reviews online on account of the surly service so it was with some trepidation that we entered on Sunday evening. we didn't know whether to be disappointed or relieved when everyone was perfectly friendly. As with all the eating establishements it is essential to book if you want to be sure of food. We didn't and fortunately they managed to find a table for two. The dining room was supervised by a young girl and two teenage waiters/waitresses. Being a Sunday they were serving a roast of the day plis a variety of other pub grub. The roast of the day was turkey accompanied by a good range of vegetables. There was little finesse but swift efficient service and plentiful hot food - just what you expect in a pub. At £8.95 for the dish of the day you couldn't complain.
The Ship Inn, South Cliff, Mousehole, TR19 6QX
Tuesday saw a day of sunshine and showers so off we trotted to St. Ives to look at the Tate. We arrived at just the wrong moment and had to queue for ages to get in. Similarly the cafe was heaving so we strolled around some of the other galleries and then it started to rain again. The Seafood Cafe was serving fish soup (among other things) and so it seemed like a good idea to go in and sample some. We had eaten here on a previous visit to St. Ives and it is to be recommended. The soup was excellent, the rain abated and we continued on our way. If you want a good place to eat in St. Ives - this should be on your list.
Sea Food Cafe, 45 Fore Street, St. Ives. Tel 01736 794004
The weather improved and we were really looking forward to sampling the menu at the Gurnards Head. We had previously enjoyed eating at The Felin Fach Griffin the Welsh sister restaurant and so saved this treat for a suny evening. Due to the geography of the Cornish lanes it took us a little time to reach Zennor but finally we saw a large building with the name written on the roof to help us find our way. Being a little early we took a stroll along the cliff and enjoyed the evening sunshine. Collecting our menus and adrink we went to sit in the garden while we considered the choices. Feeling a little cold we wandered inside and were shown to our table. The decor is interesting- shabby chic in tones of turqouise, ochre and Pompeiin red. A sofa and some board games was situated just behind our table. Our table for two and another table were actually in a passage between the bar and the larger dining area.
Without further ado we were asked what we wanted and then our starter was plonked on the table in front of us. The crab liguini was fine and this was followed by pinbone steak and chips and cod and mash. It was all fine but not very exciting. This was probably less to do with the food and more to do with the fact that there was little sense of occasion. The customer was almost an inconvenience. There was no offer of bread or olives to munch while one pondered the surroundings and enjoyed those first sips of wine. Service was efficient but perfunctory. The puddings and the evening in general were not exciting enough to make us want to linger.
At £69.70 for 2 courses and a bottle of wine was it even good value? So often the diner is just someone to be ushered in and out and take the cash. So if you want good food in a location with fine views this is the place to be. If you want to feel that you were a valued customer persevere, but don't expect too much.
The Gurnards Head, Nr Zennor, St. Ives. Tel 01736 796928
or our final evening in Cornwall we ate at the Cornish Range back in Mousehole. We had enjoyed an excellent crab sandwich from there earlier in the week and were looking forward to trying the full menu. The restaurant is on one of the back streets so you won't get a sea view but you will get a warm welcome. Settling down with the menu and straining to see the 'specials board' there were some difficult decisons to make. While we mulled them over olives, home made bread and oil were brought to the table.
Eventually we were ready to order, both choosing the same - mussells and lobster. Beware, the starters are so large that you really do not need anything else to follow, let alone half a lobster! We soldiered on though and it was very nice. My only complaint, and a very minor one, was that much as I love samphire, i could have managed without it in both mussels and lobster! Lemon possett for pudding was beautifully presented and the ice cream fiend contiued his sampling of Cornwall's best. 3 courses plus wine and coffee came in at under £70 which almost appeared to be a bargain! This was definitely the best of the establishments we visited.
The service was efficient, caring and knowledgeable, the food excellent and the actual restaurant was a pleasnat place to be. Plenty of space, the walls hung with very good paintings by local artists. Many were turned away as we ate as the place was fully booked. definitely worth a try.
The Cornish Range, 6 Chapel St., Mousehole 01736 731488
Tuesday, 28 July 2009
Food, food, glorious food.
People aren't eating out so much because of the recession! This would not appear to be the case in this little bit of the UK where pubs and restaurants appear to be packing them in. The question is are they giving good value for money?
Most of our pubs have been gastro ised, ( what a horrible expression the word 'gastro pub' is) and so with gastrification come price hikes. What are the essentials of the gastro pub? Firstly there must be several vases of funeral lilies prominantly displayed. No apirational pub can be without them. Secondly the furniture has to be modern classic, plain wood tables and chairs so heavy that unless you are thinking of entering as a weightlifter in the 2012 Olympics you won't be able to pull them from the table and finally set the price. I vaguely remember that Tony Hawks (or was it Bill Bryson) judged the price of menu's on his travels by the rate charged for Singapore Noodles; you can figure out how upmarket the prices are in gastro pub or restaurant by checking out the price of the steak. £14.95 is good, anything over £20 has to be a laugh. There are quite a few humourous establishements around.
Now why would you want to read my opinions on food or anything else for that matter? Well, I like cooking but I also like eating out and it'll be a bad week if we haven't been out at least twice. I like all sorts of food but probably won't be found in the burger or kebab establishement - not that I don't like either, it's just that I was always told not to eat on the hoof and good food requires you full attention.
Living in South East Wales we are exceptionally well blessed with eateries and never have to travel far to access good food, but we do spread our wings, even venturing over the Severn Bridge. So, if you want to know what is in my restaurant notebook keep an eye on my blog!
Most of our pubs have been gastro ised, ( what a horrible expression the word 'gastro pub' is) and so with gastrification come price hikes. What are the essentials of the gastro pub? Firstly there must be several vases of funeral lilies prominantly displayed. No apirational pub can be without them. Secondly the furniture has to be modern classic, plain wood tables and chairs so heavy that unless you are thinking of entering as a weightlifter in the 2012 Olympics you won't be able to pull them from the table and finally set the price. I vaguely remember that Tony Hawks (or was it Bill Bryson) judged the price of menu's on his travels by the rate charged for Singapore Noodles; you can figure out how upmarket the prices are in gastro pub or restaurant by checking out the price of the steak. £14.95 is good, anything over £20 has to be a laugh. There are quite a few humourous establishements around.
Now why would you want to read my opinions on food or anything else for that matter? Well, I like cooking but I also like eating out and it'll be a bad week if we haven't been out at least twice. I like all sorts of food but probably won't be found in the burger or kebab establishement - not that I don't like either, it's just that I was always told not to eat on the hoof and good food requires you full attention.
Living in South East Wales we are exceptionally well blessed with eateries and never have to travel far to access good food, but we do spread our wings, even venturing over the Severn Bridge. So, if you want to know what is in my restaurant notebook keep an eye on my blog!
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